Review: Zephs' in Peekskill

(Credit: Stephen Schmitt)

Let me be clear: At Zephs', you won't find a celebrity chef in the kitchen. You won't get to choose your wine from a mile-long list. And you certainly won't be wowed by the old-fashioned decor (note to the owners: You might want to update those pastel curtains). So, given all the restaurants that Westchester has to offer these days, why choose to dine here? Simple: for the food.

The small restaurant, owned by Vicky Zeph, a Culinary Institute of America-trained chef, and her brother Mike, has just 10 tables. It's a simple space with mustard-colored walls and hardwood floors, lit by green, lantern-like sconces. The Zephs' familial style-not the least bit intimidating—makes dining here feel like you're at a friend's dinner party. Though, mind you, a friend who can really cook.

Like the restaurant, the menu is small-five or six entrées tops—and, while it changes frequently, on a given night you can generally expect variations on lamb, chicken, steak, and fish. One night I started with the seafood gumbo, a spicy broth with big pieces of shrimp, crab, and scallions throughout. My husband had the scallops, which came in a whole-wheat puff pastry. The dish's varying flavors—endive, spinach, and red pepper-blended seamlessly. Another night, I went for the gnocchi primavera, a beautiful dish that looked more like a green salad than a heavy pasta-presentation. Fresh ricotta gnocchi was tossed with asparagus, fava beans, and wild leeks in a light cream sauce, garnished with a homemade Parmesan crouton. Al dente asparagus combined perfectly with the plump gnocchi, and ricotta oozed out of every delicious dumpling. For dinner, the chicken tapenade, half a roasted chicken, with a mix of olives and capers tucked under the skin, was outstanding. The bird had a crispy outside, a juicy inside, and the jus complemented everything on the side: broccoli and fabulous semolina gnocchi—decadent cakes made with ricotta, buttermilk, and heavy cream (given the ingredients, how could they miss?). The duck confit—two generous pieces of meat, cooked in its own fat—was tender, hearty, and perfect.

For dessert, the pineapple upside-down cake was light and sweet, paired with dulce de leche ice cream, and the chocolate mousse cake was pretty much the opposite: rich and filling. Both, however, reminded me of something else you're not likely to find at Zephs'—leftovers.

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