Review: Vox in North Salem

(Credit: Stuart Bayer)

Photos:

Right in the middle of horse country sits Vox, a neighborhood staple and Parisian bistro that serves up good food, even better service, and a sort of charm the French so eloquently call je ne sais quoi.

Just walk in and you'll see why. A classic wood bar sets a friendly tone, and then there's the dining room: simple, sparse and warm. Dark wood covers the floors. White linens top the tables, and uncluttered movie photos are lined up on the walls. Incidentally, the name Vox refers to a movie theater in Brittany, France, the place owners Jean and Sophie Le Bris once called home. The couple run the dining room like a casual dinner party, which accounts for the great neighborhood vibe. They'll stop by to say a quick, "How's everything?" before bustling from the bar to the dining room to the renowned outdoor terrace. I'd say they make it look effortless, but that would be a lie. In fact, they look like they're working very hard, but also like they enjoy their work.

And that's probably not hard to do given that Executive Chef Christophe Cadou, formerly of South Salem's Le Château, is in the kitchen. His menu includes both French and American dishes, and few disappoint. An appetizer special of pan-fried ravioli, stuffed with crab and corn, and topped with mango salsa, was incredibly light and fresh. On the other hand, the tomato confit tart missed the mark. Peeled tomatoes are stacked with fresh mozzarella on top of a crust, then drizzled with basil-infused olive oil. The dish was OK, but fresh mozzarella and tomatoes, untouched, would have been better.

For dinner, my husband had the roasted duck served over rice. It was phenomenal — not too fatty or salty. As for me, I ordered the special filet in a red wine reduction. The meat was tasty, though less interesting than the duck, and served over polenta that tasted just like homemade cornbread. On the side, frites were crisp and salty, and the spinach sautéed with garlic was perfectly crunchy with just enough garlic ... but not too much. And while few things are as wonderful as a trip to France, you don't need to cross the Atlantic for a standout crème brûlée — surprisingly enough, the best one I've ever had is right here in North Salem.

For pics to click, go Inside: Vox in North Salem

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