Review: Velo in Nyack

(Credit: Mark Vergari)

Photos:

Nyack has always been one of Rockland's top food destinations, but don't forget about one of its stellar wine bars.

Velo, which means "bike" in French, is known for its emphasis on pairing good food with fine wine.

It's certainly a spiffy restaurant, although a little loud once the crowd comes in. Diners have their choice of sipping wine at the bar or a small sofa set-up near the front. It's not large – which may account for the noise level – but it's elegant and simply appointed. There are gold-colored banquettes on one side and a restored tin ceiling that adds some personality. The lighting is low and everywhere, it seems. People throughout the place hold huge goblets to sample something sparkling, white, red or rosé.

Available are 16 different wines by the glass, half and full bottles, and a varied wine list, which includes more than 40 varieties. Sampling is encouraged, which makes it easy to forgo your "usual suspects" and try something new.

Chef Anthony DeVanzo's food is adventurous and made to accompany lots of wines. Since I was in a "bistro mood," I went with the steak frites, a dish with the ideal combination of juicy and salty. (The fries were amazing!) My friend's semi-boneless, free-range, organic chicken with broccoli rabe and pan gravy showed that DeVanzo can do basic beautifully, too; simple flavors and good cooking had me stealing more than a few forkfuls.

Service is impeccable here. When we told the waiter we were going to split the grilled pizza appetizer and a salad, he went ahead and divided the dishes onto two plates for us. When we hemmed and hawed over what to order, he graciously offered his opinion. And when our glasses emptied, he magically appeared, to make sure we didn't need anything else. And we really didn't until he convinced us dessert was worth trying.

All I can say: Order the warm brownie sundae with housemade cappuccino ice cream and chocolate sauce. It was seriously one of the best desserts I've ever had — the perfect blend of warm, gooey chocolate, and cold ice cream, though I would have liked a larger scoop! Next time. With this winning combination, it's a sure bet I'll be back.

For pics to click, go Inside: Velo

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