Review: Red Hat in Irvington

(Credit: Stuart Bayer)

Photos:

The packed parking lot and crowded bar at Red Hat are solid indications that the bistro's loyal fans are out in force. Unlike many of them, I'd never been to the original restaurant on Main Street, so I can't make an old-versus-new comparison. But I can tell you that the food and décor were impressive enough to turn me into a regular.

We sat upstairs in the loft in a romantic corner banquette covered in new, crinkly maroon leather. Simple votive candles reflected off the dark wood and brasserie-style mirrors, surrounding us with a warm glow. The whole space is enchanting. An open, two-floor design provides sprawling views of the Hudson from pretty much anywhere. Although busy, service was not rushed, so we had time to swirl an Espresso martini — made with Belgian chocolate — while contemplating the New American menu.

We started with The Red Hat Salad, a nice mix of avocado, cucumber and sweet tomatoes, but it didn't blow me away. The spicy yellow-fin tuna tartare, however, was a different story — a small mound of tender fish with avocado, cucumber, ginger and lime-pickled daikon radish. For dinner, a spice-crusted duck was tasty, but the side of spaetzle — German noodles, shaped, in this case, like lentils — was a revelation. (In the dim light, I'd swear I was eating an incredibly creamy mac 'n' cheese.) Day Boat Maine sea scallops were also a hit, simply seared and served with cremini mushrooms, savoy cabbage, and potato purée.

Since the restaurant is known for its Braised Short Ribs Pot au Feu (i.e., cooked and served in a crock), I checked in with a regular who had ordered them. His take was that the chef had jazzed up the homey entrée a little for the new digs, but the dish was still delicious. There was crème brûlée, a lemon tart and a cheese plate for dessert — all tempting, but the toffee and amaretto bread pudding had me scraping for the very last crumbs.

Even the buzz from the bar made me reluctant to leave. But at least I know I'll be back.

For pics to click, go Inside: Red Hat in Irvington

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