Review: Pomona Chophouse in Pomona

(Credit: Angela Gaul)

Photos:

After launching Ravi Continental Cuisine in Suffern last spring, Rockland restaurateur Ravi Buckredan waited only a few months before unveiling the Pomona Chophouse on the site of the former Rainbow Grill.

"The owner was ready to close up the show. All the right pieces were there, and it was a great business opportunity," Buckredan said. "I decided to take a risk." From a diner's point of view, that risk is paying off.

While Ravi Continental sits at the upscale end of the local restaurant continuum, Buckredan has positioned the Chophouse as a more casual, budget-friendly spot, with a menu that features steak and fish. We happily followed the menu's lead.

Steak au poivre was a hefty slab of meat that arrived cooked exactly as requested. The dual-pepper heat of the black and green peppercorns, tempered by the cream-based sauce, complemented and flattered the beefy flavor without overwhelming it. Stuffed tilapia, with the filet coiled around a mixture of artichoke hearts and spinach, was a lighter but equally satisfying entrée.

Luxuriously creamy mashed potatoes accompanied the steak and a colorful rice pilaf was paired with the fish; green beans came with both. And with all due respect to the rest of the food, the beans that came with both dinners were possibly the best thing we tasted there: They were clearly fresh, perfectly cooked and gilded with just enough butter to lend a shine and boost their sweetness.

The rich but airy bread pudding was topped with a dark caramel sauce that was on the edge between sweet and bitter. Chef James Gannon does double duty as pastry chef, so desserts are no mere afterthought. The lineup includes a series of bread puddings, says Buckredan, plus a mean crème brûlée. And if you're lucky, you might snag one of Gannon's freshly baked oatmeal cookies.

Most full-scale entrees are priced in the teens, with burgers and hearty sandwiches hovering about the $10 mark. The cozy nooks beside the fireplace and well-deployed candles give the place warmth that can be appreciated year-round.

An even better source of warmth, though, is the genial hospitality. From the hostess to the servers and busboys, everyone was professional, cordial, helpful and refreshingly knowledgeable. Even though Pomona Chophouse has set its sights — and prices — lower than Ravi, it hasn't cut any corners in the kind of service it offers, and that makes this place a genuine bargain of a dining experience.

For pics to click, go Inside: Pomona Chophouse

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