Review: Olde Stone Mill in Tuckahoe

(Credit: Matthew Brown)

Photos:

Would you eat in a restaurant overhauled by "Hell's Kitchen" chef Gordon Ramsay? If the answer is yes, head to Tuckahoe's Olde Stone Mill, one of the dining spots Ramsay "rescued" as part of the Fox series "Kitchen Nightmares." The experience did wonders to overhaul a spot that, while gorgeous, had a seriously under-performing kitchen. The Ramsay-revamped steakhouse-style menu represents an obvious turnaround.

Owner Dean Marrazzo, an actor and restaurateur, rebuilt this space himself in 2003, and the result was expansive and impressive, from the handmade front bar right down to a classy restroom in which you'd actually want to linger. Ramsay apparently didn't dwell on the details of the dining room, but went right to work on the food, changing the menu from muddled American to pulled-together steakhouse offerings.

To see the transformation for myself, I dropped by and opted to dine on the outdoor patio. Settled in with a toasty Pinot Noir, we gave the new menu the once-over. Appetizers include Thai lettuce wraps with marinated chicken, a classic shrimp cocktail and even a half-rack of baby back ribs. We had the fresh mozzarella and tomatoes, meaty slices of cheese and unforgivably just-OK tomatoes that should've been better during tomato season. The steamed Prince Edward Island mussels, though, were worth the calories from the basket of bread we used to finish off the spicy red broth. There are a few salads, including a frisée with roasted beets and goat cheese, and one with warm sautéed mushrooms, caramelized shallots, and garlic croutons.

For dinner, I was warmed by a bowl of seared scallops, served over corn and edamame succotash; a filet mignon is served à la carte, perfectly charred and perfectly rare; the sides of haricots verte and mashed potatoes were nice complements. The list of steaks also includes a 32-ounce porterhouse for two and a 14-ounce rib-eye, but the menu has a meaty helping of other entrées such as prime rib served with Yorkshire pudding and a seared halibut with red potatoes and broccoli rabe.

Dessert was almost an afterthought, but I wanted to find out how this turnaround ends: There were some hard-to-resist sweets (cheesecake, and a raspberry chocolate torte), but the apple galette, an airy braid of dough coiled around sweet sugary fruit and dusted with cinnamon, was a kitchen dream.

Thank you, Gordon Ramsay!

For pics to click, go Inside: Olde Stone Mill in Tuckahoe

Add a comment