In search of Rockland's best Thai food

Sripraphai, Queens

There's a delicate coconut-chicken soup with depth and balance; green curry that starts sweet and then leaves your lips tingling with spice; and duck salad that draws salt from a hint of fish sauce, crunch from peanuts and cucumbers, and freshness from cilantro and mint.

It's great for foodies and novices alike - the restaurant gives cautious Americans a picture menu, so if you're unfamiliar with the dishes, you can see what they look like before you commit. So what if the drive won't be much fun? Just do it. This is the Thai food restaurant to which we compare all others - and to which most others fail to compare.

Dinner for two: $40, excluding tax, tip and alcohol