In search of Rockland's best Thai food

King and I, Nyack

The cooking is earnest - you can tell the kitchen tries hard - but, unfortunately, it's not always successful at King and I. Instead of the signature flaming-duck dish (which was overcooked) or the kaffir lime-laden green curry (which tasted like perfumey soap), try the basil chicken. It comes in a simple, silky brown sauce, which was thick and rich but not quite spicy enough for me.

The Indian-influenced and peanut-based masaman curry is sweet yet spicy and has the depth that comes from sultry spices like cinnamon and cardamom. Their tom kha gai soup leans more toward sweet than balanced, but that makes it a perfect intro for budding Thai food fans.

Dinner for two: $60, excluding tax, tip and alcohol